Tuesday, September 4, 2012

Dome Peak and Spire Point

Five days (four in terms of hours)
Forty-four-ish miles
9900 feet of elevation gain
Two summits:
Standard route on Dome Peak - glacier travel and an extremely exposed class three scramble.
South face of Spire Point - 5.6, five pitches (I led the easy one), with a class four scramble to the summit and two rappels down the standard route to the north.

Adam has posted a full trip report here

One of two actually damaged sections of the road; encouragingly, we saw  quite a bit of work being done between the gate and this point, suggesting that they really do intend to open the road next year.

Cub Lake at last, Glacier Peak visible to the south.

Itswoot Ridge, our camp was at the saddle just left of dead center (6400 ft).

One of the finer campsites any of us had ever seen.

Dome Peak hidden by afternoon clouds, a typical occurrence as we would discover.

Heading out toward Dome Peak.

The Dana-Dome Col.

Sentinel and Old Guard Peaks, finally proving that that the couloir I reconnoitered did reach the lower snow fields.

Exposed glacial ice on the Dome Glacier.

The wrong col.

Approaching the summit ridge.

Four lenticulars on Glacial Peak, supposedly a sign of bad weather coming in.

Class three traverse to the summit, to his right is a  straight drop of several hundred feet.

The route to Sinister Peak blocked by a bergschrund (mostly out of view)

Matt found a full 60 meter rope in a bivy spot below the peak.

The south faces of the east and west summits of Spire Point; the east, to the right, is higher.

Adam opting out of the Spire Point climb, if I had brought a warmer sleeping bag I might have been tempted to stay too.

Our route would follow chimneys just on the other side of the prominent buttress to the upper bowl before traversing the south-east face and ascending the final hundred-ish feet to the summit.

Class 3-4 scrambling to the chimneys.

End of the first pitch.

West summit of Spire Point.

Ryan leading the fourth, and hardest, pitch

The summit!

Rappelling down the scramble route.

Sock options

Last camp, on the Bachelor Creek trail.

Huge fish in Downey Creek.

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