Sunday, August 26, 2012

American Border Peak

Yesterday, saturday the 25th, I climbed American Border Peak (7994 ft) with Ryan, Adam, and Robbin. It was my first fifth class alpine route as well as one of the more intense climbs I have ever done.

A full trip report, including some additional photos, can be found here.

Twin Lakes at sunrise.

Mount Larrabee

On the trail to Low Pass.

Adam, who really knows how to pick a climb. 

Ascending to High Pass.

A tricky spot once we left the trail.

American Border Peak in view, Canadian Border Peak to the left.

Tomyhoi Peak

Larrabee from the saddle.

An avalanche track in the forest below.

The route went around to the left and across to the snow finger.

The chimney from the notch above the snow finger.

The lower pitch of the chimney, that sling is attached to a rusty piton.

Ryan getting his rock protection ready.

Entering the keyhole

A bivouac spot on the summit ridge, the largest area of flat ground since High Pass.

Me on the summit block, the true summit is actually about twenty feet behind me and maybe three feet higher.

The US-Canada border

Ryan preparing to rappel through the chimney.

The puget sound, possibly Vancouver island beyond?

The moon over Shuksan.

Sunday, August 19, 2012

South Twin

South Twin, the high point of Twin Sisters Mountain (perhaps massif would be a better term), is a 6932 ft peak in the North Cascades, just southwest of Mount Baker.

The end of the logging road, we stashed our bikes in the bushes nearby.

Adam and Greg foraging for sustenance; the huckleberries were slightly less than ripe, but still very tart.

Just breaking out of the forest.

A very old log cabin.


An excellent camp spot, and only 4700 ft!

The North Twin, although lower in elevation, is a slightly more popular climb.

False summits and the South Twin on the far left.

The southern peaks of Twin Sisters Mountain.

Mount Baker, with Colfax Peak, Lincoln Peak, and Assassin Spire to the left.


Approaching the summit.

Olivine, a green mineral that occasionally produces gem-quality crystals.

What looks like lichen is actually tiny crystals, scrambling without gloves would be very ill-advised.

Re-filling our canteens before the final descent.