Sunday, July 29, 2012

Mount Shuksan

I've had it with this hwy-2, I-90, Alpine Lakes Wilderness nonsense, the North Cascades is where its at.

A maintained trail. 

An unmaintained trail. 

Shannon Ridge

The notch in view.

High camp on the upper right.

Approaching high camp.

First view of the Summit Pyramid with the Sulphide Glacier below

Terminus of the Crystal Glacier

X marks the spot?

An interesting bouldering problem (for another trip).

First light - 4:00ish

Approaching the Summit Pyramid.

Rock step to the last snowfield.

The crux of the gully (by my evaluation)

From the summit, either the Upper Curtis or the Hanging Glacier.

Sulphide rim route curves around, staying fairly close to the crest to the right of the glacier.

Descending through the mist below the notch.

Sunday, July 22, 2012

Mount Stuart

At 9415 ft, Mount Stuart is the second highest non-volcanic peak in Washington. It is also the high point of the Stuart Range, the centerpiece of the Alpine Lakes Wilderness. There are many routes on this complex peak, including the classic West Ridge, and several that involve intense ice and mixed climbing on the north face. I took the standard class 3 route up the Cascadian Couloir, which, including the approach, involves somewhere around 8000 ft of elevation gain in about 12-13 miles, round-trip.

my full trip report is visible on summitpost
but, as usual, my photos will be displayed here.

 On the trail up to Longs Pass, what appears to be switchbacks is actually an old road grade the trail mostly avoids.

Longs Pass, the actual trail, not to be confused with my descent route, goes around the larger snowbank to the right.

First full view of Mt Stuart.

Descent from Longs Pass

Longs Pass from near the valley floor.

What is left of the log bridge, crossing next year might be interesting.

Climber's trail up to the Cascadian Couloir.

In the Cascadian Couloir, note the abundance of loose rock.

View back toward Longs Pass.

Finally leaving the couloir.

 Sherpa Peak

A steep snowfield that led to the false summit.

First view of the true summit.

The Enchantments from the summit.

The Stuart Glacier, one of three on Mt. Stuart's north face; although not visible in this photo substantial icefall could be heard.
Stuart Lake

The false summit and the route across to the true.

re-entering the Cascadian Couloir.

Mountain goat kids at Longs Pass

Last view of the summit before descending to the Ingalls Way trail.